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Saturday, June 29, 2024

Totaig Bay - Kyle of Lochalsh

Weather chess is always difficult in new cruising grounds. But this time we hit the jackpot - the cosy little anchoring bay at Totaig had no swell, and cut the gale to nearly nothing. The only restless night was when the wind had a northerly component that blew occasionally into the bay. But even then, we were swinging securely on the anchor with good holding. Time was spent reading, a bit more elaborate cooking, and a proper movie night.

This morning it was time to move, as Karin had a train to catch. We hoisted anchor and motored past the dozen seals hanging out on the rock in the middle of the bay.

At this point, having missed basically all of the gale, it was still a bit of a question whether it had even been “that bad”. The answer arrived as soon as we turned the corner into Loch Alsh. Even though the gale was already over, we had gusts up to 30kt, and nasty chop that got the helmsman soaked.

The conditions were such that the exposed marina in Kyle of Lochalsh was closed, and the more protected one on the other side at Kyleakin was packed to the gills. So we picked a visitor mooring by the Skye bridge and got Karin ashore via dinghy.


After the three storm days, we’re pretty low on battery power, and it would be time for some provisions. But let’s see how we handle those. Either we wait for the marina to open when the weather eases, or press on further. The forecast has almost no sunshine in it, so likely the power will need to come from the alternator.

From the logbook

Time Position Course Speed Log Weather Remarks
27.06. 14:24 Z 57°16'8"N 5°31'35"W 182° 0kt 5091.3NM wind 1.2kt 271° baro 993 hPa We got strafed by three F-35s
27.06. 14:31 Z 57°16'8"N 5°31'36"W 197° 0kt 5091.3NM wind 1.6kt 351° baro 993 hPa Started main engine
27.06. 14:41 Z 57°16'9"N 5°31'37"W 247° 0.4kt 5091.3NM wind 2.2kt 305° baro 993 hPa Anchor up, motoring
27.06. 14:43 Z 57°16'9"N 5°31'37"W 269° 0kt 5091.3NM wind 0.5kt 336° baro 993 hPa Anchored
27.06. 14:54 Z 57°16'9"N 5°31'38"W 337° 0kt 5091.3NM wind 0.7kt 56° baro 993 hPa Stopped main engine
29.06. 6:51 Z 57°16'9"N 5°31'38"W 65° 0kt 5091.3NM wind 6kt 136° baro 1011 hPa Started main engine
29.06. 7:02 Z 57°16'12"N 5°31'31"W 47° 3.1kt 5091.3NM wind 1.2kt 29° baro 1011 hPa Anchor up, motoring
29.06. 8:00 Z 57°16'8"N 5°36'15"W 250° 2.5kt 5094.5NM wind 23.6kt 220° baro 1011 hPa Hourly position log
29.06. 9:00 Z 57°16'26"N 5°41'48"W 274° 3.1kt 5097.5NM wind 22.8kt 246° baro 1011 hPa Hourly position log
29.06. 9:29 Z 57°16'49"N 5°43'43"W 141° 0.4kt 5098.9NM wind 13.9kt 241° baro 1011 hPa Stopped
29.06. 11:19 Z 57°16'49"N 5°43'43"W 179° 0.3kt 5098.9NM wind 12.3kt 236° baro 1011 hPa karin left the crew