Thursday, April 30, 2026 9°54'S 139°6'W

Hanavave - Hanamoenoa

We woke up again before the sunrise to prepare the boat. We packed away the dinghy and replaced the hydrogenerator fastening washer. Then it was time to fight the anchor up. Hoisting anchor by hand from 12m is never easy, but the gale-force katabatics of previous night had truly dug the anchor in. But with enough patience, it came up.

As Havis Amanda had receiced her hat by the time we were underway, Suski also wore her Vappu gear for the sail. Manta rays escorted us out of the bay. Mantas, without a hat.

We hoisted the main in 1st reef and motorsailed until we got out of the wind shadow of Fatu Hiva. Then we unrolled the genoa and continued on a brisk but nice broad reach.

At the south end of Tahuata the conditions got quite gusty. We entered the scenic bay of Hanatefau, but just as we got the hook down, a katabatic wind swept through the anchorage. We saw a dinghy with a large outboard fly up, flip, and fall back into the water. With that, we decided to seek a calmer anchorage. And so we continued to Hanamoenoa. Mantas again escorted us into the bay.

• Distance today: 47.7NM
• Lunch: pomelo
• Engine hours: 3.7

Wednesday, April 22, 2026 10°27'S 138°40'W

Hanamoenoa - Hanavave

In the darkness we prepped the boat for leaving. Mentally we weren’t quite ready but this weather window was too good to pass. Most people arrive to Fatu Hiva after the passage without checking in to avoid the beating to the wind and waves that have the whole Pacific time to build up to arrive to an island they already passed. We being us did it the proper way. But instead of beating we had a nice beam reach sail with minimal swell after we were out of the shadow of Hiva Oa.

This was something you can call champagne sailing! Absolute bliss under full genoa and mainsail.

Anchoring proved to be complicated, as in Hanavave the anchoring spots are either good and deep or bad and shallow. We tried shallow and bad for few times before giving up and opting for good and deep. Now we have the full 50 meters out and for good measure also the rope is on deck in case we need to give more scope. The bottom of the anchor chain locker saw daylight for the first time since Scotland!

• Distance today: 47.8NM
• Lunch: vegetable wrapps
• Engine hours: 3.6

Saturday, April 18, 2026 9°54'S 139°6'W

Taha Uku - Hanamoenoa

We had a great week exploring Hiva Oa. However, the muddy river water wasn’t suitable for swimming or running the watermaker, and so we decided to move over to Tahuata. We still hadn’t had a chance to clean the hull, but the local crab population had done a great job eating away most of it.

We hoisted the main into first reef in the shelter of the breakwater, and sailed high into the wind. As the Haava Channel got closer, we could slowly lower the course, eventually to wing on wing.

We arrived to a beautiful bay with a palm beach. The anchorage is quite full, with many boats we know from various stages of our cruise.

• Distance today: 9.4NM
• Lunch: spaghetti with aubergines
• Engine hours: 0.7

Saturday, April 11, 2026 9°48'S 139°1'W

Taha Uku, 4180NM WSW of Catalinia

The night was dark and filled with squalls turning the wind. Our track was coming out like an plan for uneven stairs. The wind mostly stayed between 20 and 25kn and Lille Ø was behaving magnificiently even though the waves were tossing us around. Inside even sitting required 3 points of contact to ensure stability. We were fast. Even the barnacles agreed it is go time and streamlined themselves against the hull.

As the sun was slowly rising there hadn’t been any sight of land yet. As this promised to be the last day at sea the morning watch got served a cappuccino. Oh what a taste! And as if the caffeine had heightened my senses, soon after land was sighted! A dark shape between the clouds rising from the sea. The eastern most point of Hiva Oa. It seems we can find a needle in a haystack or a tiny island in the vastness of the ocean!

As the day grew older, more of the islands unveiled themselves from the clouds. The sheer rockfaces reaching up to the sky straight from the ocean. The terrain will be a proper bootcamp for our legs which haven’t taken more than a few hundred steps per day for the past 6 weeks!

As we got closer to shore, the wind dwindled but we were enjoying the slower pace that gave us time to take in the schenery. The various greens of the forest covering the island, the numerous birds zig-zagging between the waves in the quest for food and the blacks and browns of the cliffs plunging to the sea. Then depth sounder sprang alive! 100 meters to the bottom. We had found the foot of the island.

The entrance to the anchorage reveals itsel quite late. Just behind a small peninsula where waves were breaking with thunderous bangs we were greeted with a small swell and brown runoff water from the river. We made our way right to the mouth of the river where someone had left a Lille Ø sized hole. Only 3 meters deep here, but it is enough. Now we are again connected to both land and sea. The great sea voyage is now behind us and we open a new chapter of Pacific island hopping.

• Distance today: 91NM
• Lunch: not yet
• Engine hours: 0.9

Friday, April 10, 2026 9°48'S 137°32'W

Pacific Ocean, 4089NM WSW of Catalinia

Boat number 17, sailboat number 3, was spotted behind us in the darkness. An Oyster Rally boat Alpenglow sailed past us at double speed. We had a small conversation over VHF and soon they had disappeared into the darkness.

The morning didn’t turn bright, it turned grey. Squalls and lulls woven to each other like a gray wool blanket. The winds were varied as if they already could sense the land, and ebb and flow up and down simulating the tall volcanic slopes of the Marquesas. Eventually one of the squalls came with gusts over 30kn, so out in to the rain we went to put in a 2nd reef. After a while as the wind kept dropping we put back the 1st reef. This passage was going to test us till the very end.

At 3pm we got to the magical 2 digit numbers on the plotter! If we can keep up average speed of 4kn, we shall be dropping anchor in Hiva Oa exactly 6 weeks after starting!

• Distance today: 100NM
• Lunch: lentil coconut soup
• Engine hours: 0

Thursday, April 9, 2026 9°37'S 135°54'W

Pacific Ocean, 3989NM WSW of Catalinia

As our target draws nearer, we need to start paying a bit more attention to navigation. It is no longer enough to follow a roughly westerly course whichever way the wind blows. And so, we gybed right after dinner to gain a bit more northing.

The night was a bit lighter than forecasted, but with the easterly wind. Sunrise brought more wind, and from the southeast, and so we gybed again. Now the bow is pointing straight to target.

• Distance today: 100NM
• Lunch: pea soup
• Engine hours: 0

Wednesday, April 8, 2026 9°51'S 134°20'W

Pacific Ocean, 3889NM WSW of Catalinia

Slightly after watch change, it was time to roll in the genoa and go wing on wing with the staysail. The night came with variable windspeeds littered with occasional squalls and rain. As the sun rose, the skies cleared but the wind stayed. We were moving fast, with the whole barnacle farm. Even the windvane servo rudder is rocking its first few small individuals. The boat starts showing the length of the passage. The sun cover strip of our genoa needs some re-stiching, we moved the windvane steering line by 20cm to move the slightly chafed bit away from the blocks, and our staysail had a little hole in the bottom that we fixed with some sail tape. The pole-out sheet we use with both sails got turned around as there was some significant chafe developing in it where it goes through the eye of the pole. The genoa sheets look like they want to be turned around so that the good end of the line replaces the parts where wear and tear are starting to take their toll. And the sides of the boat - brown with algae growth. Lille Ø will need some TLC after this one.

• Distance today: 108NM
• Lunch: chanterelle risotto
• Engine hours: 0

Tuesday, April 7, 2026 9°40'S 132°33'W

Pacific Ocean, 3781NM WSW of Catalinia

The light winds prevailed through the night. Light enough that we actually let the tillerpilot steer for some time, as there wasn’t enough for the windvane.

In the early hours we watched a slow-motion chase scene, as the French sailboat La Bulle approached behind the horizon, and pulled ahead in about 7h from first contact. Boats are getting closer as we all head for the same islands. This was our 16th vessel sighting, and the second sailboat.

Just before dinnertime we gybed again, as now the winds should again carry a southerly component. Under 400NM to go!

• Distance today: 91NM
• Lunch: navy bean soup
• Engine hours: 0

Monday, April 6, 2026 10°10'S 131°8'W

Pacific Ocean, 3690NM WSW of Catalinia

With the evening came a bit more wind, but only for the dark hours without moonlight. The boat bobs gently on, accompanied by periodic bangs from the sails. Not the most pleasant sailing wise. The Pacific isn’t pacified. The swell is constant, large and confused. At all times there is at least two swell directions and when they meet at your position, the boat lurches into a random direction. The barnacles are plentiful and their growing size brings the slow speeds even slower.

But there is much to celebrate! On this date two years ago we set sail from Berlin towards the cool waters and climate of Scotland. And look at us now! Nearly half way around the world in the tropical heat of the Pacific!

At dawn we gybed as the wind persistently was easterly. On other days we have meandered with the wind shifts, but that option wasn’t available today. What a weird sight to see the sails this way around! 

We also moved the ship’s time to UTC-9. Only another half hour shift remaining before we are at Marquesas timezone.

• Distance today: 92NM
• Lunch: spaghetti aglio e olio
• Engine hours: 0

Sunday, April 5, 2026 10°0'S 129°39'W

Pacific Ocean, 3598NM WSW of Catalinia

At night the boat was visited by a pod of whales. Large black shapes rose out of the dark sea all around the boat. They stayed for a few minutes, and then continued on their way.

Sailing-wise today has been a rehash of yesterday. Winds are light, just barely enough to keep the three-sail setup filled.

• Distance today: 100NM
• Lunch: paneer coconut curry
• Engine hours: 0