Monday, October 26, 2026 23°38'S 178°53'W

North Minerva Reef, 424NM SW of Neiafu

The going got progressively easier the further south we got. In the early hours we had some rain showers that turned the wind, and so in the morning we set up the poled out genoa and shook to first reef. Soon after we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. Lille Ø is out of the tropics for the first time since leaving Canaries.

Around noon we saw a forest of masts rising up from the horizon. Minerva Reef is a convenient stop along the way to New Zealand, a lot of this weather window’s departure cohort has chosen to stop here.

This place is quite amazing, a barren reef atoll in the middle of the ocean. You can see some coral above the surface, but there are no islands like in Tuamotus. We dropped the hook in 10m and are anchored in crystal clear water.

• Distance today: 122NM
• Lunch: spaghetti bolognese
• Engine hours: 1

Sunday, October 25, 2026 22°13'S 177°44'W

Pacific Ocean, 302NM SW of Neiafu

The night was uneventful. Lille Ø kept sailing on its course with little to no intervention from the crew, who were slowly getting fitter from the various levels of sea sickness. The morning grew gray as scattered rainclouds kept swiching the wind between 7 and 27kn. Afternoon brought the sun out and steady winds around 20kn. In the horizon we see the also heavily reefed Mathilda flying past us at around 10kn of speed.

Fiji Met Office bulletin promised rough seas north of 22°S, and indeed after that line things got more comfortable

• Distance today: 132NM
• Lunch: gazpacho
• Engine hours: 0

Saturday, October 24, 2026 20°29'S 176°9'W

Pacific Ocean, 170NM SW of Neiafu

The sporty conditions continued over the night and the day with wind over 32kn at times, and only a slight reduction to sea state while we were at the lee of the Ha’apai Group.

Big seas, quite often splashing the cockpit or breaking against the windscreen of our hard dodger. But also beautiful starry sky, and blue skies during the day.

We’re still working on our sea legs but progress towards Minerva is good. Conditions are supposed to start easing tonight.

• Distance today: 139NM
• Lunch: sandwiches
• Engine hours: 0

Friday, October 23, 2026 18°53'S 174°21'W

Pacific Ocean, 31NM SW of Neiafu

After over a month in Neiafu, we heard the seiren song of the open ocean once more. We checked out of Tonga and raised the main sail in 1st reef and gybed our way out of the calm waters of Vava’u archipelago. After the last gybe we raised the stay sail and were on our merry way. After passing the last tall island, we put in a second reef and were bracing for the increasing sea state. From 1 to 1.5 and as of writing 2 meters. Now that we are properly between the Vava’u and Haapa’i groups, the seas are confused and the month spent in still waters means that we both are dealing with some level of sea sickness.

• Distance today: 31NM
• Lunch: Lentil Coconut Soup
• Engine hours: 0.2

Tuesday, September 15, 2026 18°39'S 173°59'W

Hihifo - Neiafu

After a night well slept, we hoisted anchor at sunrise. Always a big effort at these depths! Then we started ghosting along following the steep shoreline. At the lee of Vava’u, the winds were fickle and progress slow. But we were rewarded by two whales surfacing close to the boat.

Once we got to the channel leading to the inner archipelago, wind picked up. What followed was a fun brisk upwind sail amid the small islands. This will be a great cruising ground once we’re cleared in!

The Outremer rally was leaving Tonga as we sailed in. We had a brief radio conversation with the Finnish boat No Regrets. We’ll meet them later in New Zealand.

As there is a supply ship at the customs dock, we and the other incoming boats were told to anchor outside. Biosecurity and Health & Safety came onboard as soon as we had the anchor down, but we still wait for Customs and Immigration.

• Distance today: 12NM
• Lunch: not yet
• Engine hours: 0.9

Monday, September 14, 2026 18°37'S 174°1'W

Hihifo, 253NM W of Niue

In the darkness we crossed over the Tonga Trench, the second deepest trench in the world! Few hours later, at midnight, it was time to change the ship’s clock. From Saturday 12th of September straight to Monday 14th of September. From UTC -11 to UTC +13. A day lost to the abyss. Yet another milestone on this trip!

At dawn Swiss catamaran Raija flew past us. Around midday the wind picked up enough to require 1st reef on the main and genoa rolled in about 30%. That also meant that finally we had enough wind to go wing on wing, so we adjusted our course to pass Vava’u from the north as it became clear we cannot make it to Neiafu during daylight hours. After turning the northern corner we could enjoy sailing in flat seas and good wind! We dropped the hook in 15 meters of water. We’ll continue to Neifu tomorrow after a good night’s sleep.

• Distance today: 114NM
• Lunch: tomato cashew pasta
• Engine hours: 0.9

Saturday, September 12, 2026 18°36'S 172°10'W

Pacific Ocean, 139NM W of Niue

Overnight the wave train settled to the new wind direction, and the cloudy conditions dissipated. As result, we enjoyed quite a smooth ride under a starlit sky.

Winds are light making for slow going. But if conditions stay this smooth, what’s an extra day at sea?

In the morning hours we were passed by catamaran O2, and the whole day the Polish vessel Matilda has been creeping closer.

• Distance today: 100NM
• Lunch: quinoa salad
• Engine hours: 0

Friday, September 11, 2026 19°2'S 170°32'W

Pacific Ocean, 39NM W of Niue

As expected, in the night the wind had veered to NW and was supposed to turn to southerly winds through west over the day. That meant that it was time to go. With any westerly components in the wind Niue mooring field is completely unprotected and the waves will become dangerously big quite quickly. So at first light we dropped the mooring lines and motored past the other boats to set sails and head out. With staysail and first reef we ventured out. The expected wind turn was supposed to come as a front. As we saw the row of dark grey rainclouds approaching, we put in a second reef, just in case.

The front passed and the wind turned, so we tacked and continued our sail, again with first reef, now actually pointing towards the northern corner of Tonga. The sea state was quite confused during the wind shift, but soon we could continue with wind and waves on the beam.

• Distance today: 39NM
• Lunch: pomodoro pasta
• Engine hours: 0.05

Friday, September 4, 2026 19°3'S 169°55'W

Niue, 619NM W of Aitutaki

Good sailing conditions prevailed until the morning, but then we were back to low winds and slatting sails.

Instead of motoring the rest of the way, we chose to gybe our way towards Niue, trying to play with the currents in order to find the more favorable tack.

In the afternoon the wind picked up again and we were able to point more or less to our destination. But the time lost in light winds meant arrival after sunset. Luckily the mooring balls at Niue are well marked and easy to find. Now we can enjoy an anleger of a German Krombacher beer to mark the halfway point.

• Distance today: 119NM
• Lunch: potato parmesan bracioles
• Engine hours: 0.5

Thursday, September 3, 2026 18°51'S 168°9'W

Pacific Ocean, 500NM W of Aitutaki

The night started quite rough, with a series of 32kn gusts rolling over the boat. As we had reefed down early, dealing with them meant just doing a slight weather helm correction on the windvane, and then zipping down the dodger backdrop. Such luxury to stay dry in conditions like this!

By midnight the worst was over. Around 3am the off-watch was roused for a happier occasion: we had just crossed W166°48’24” of longitude, which happens to be the antimeridian of our home port in Berlin. Now all Nautical Miles sailed will be closer to home.

Quite pleasant sailing conditions followed. Wind in the teens and slowly decreasing sea state. Some moments of lull brought slatting sails, and we hope that there’s enough wind until Niue.

• Distance today: 140NM
• Lunch: pea soup
• Engine hours: 0