Saturday, June 6, 2026 16°39'S 143°23'W

Pouheva - Makemo E

In the morning we completed the boat’s provisioning by rowing to get some fresh croissants from the village bakery. Then we waited for the sun to move to a better angle and hoisted anchor.

Soon we were able to fly full sail, and ghost along the still atoll on a gentle breeze. Sun was high and behind us, making bommie avoidance easy. And with this wind direction, the sails provided a nice shade for the lookout.

Now we are anchored in the east end of the Makemo atoll. Water is very clear here, and there are many reefs to explore. But first we’ll have to wait out some higher winds over the next two days.

• Distance today: 10NM
• Lunch: melanzanchini
• Engine hours: 1.4

Wednesday, June 3, 2026 16°37'S 143°34'W

Garumaoa - Pouheva

There are passages that are easy, and there are passages that are nice. This was neither. We were supposed to sail on beam reach from Raroia to Makemo, following a gentle curve of a backing wind.

With this plan, we timed ourselves to slack water at the pass. And indeed there was no current, but as a sign of things to come, quite big and sharp waves that carried through the pass.

We exited together with Plan B. We were hobbyhorsing quite badly in the swell, and soon they overtook us and headed for the horizon.

Wind turned way earlier than anticipated, and what followed was a tough beat into big waves and quite changing winds. At times we were making comfortable progress with 60° wind angle and 15kn of wind, and other times we were bobbing about with no wind.

And then there were the squalls. 33kn, 36kn, and the last one taking the crown at 45kn. With sails up, the best option was to run with these, losing an hour or two of progress in just minutes. After the last squall, the wind died and we had to motor in. At least we timed the pass correctly and had a totally smooth ride in with 1.5kn of favourable current.

• Distance today: 94NM
• Lunch: lentil turnip curry
• Engine hours: 8.4

Monday, June 1, 2026 16°2'S 142°28'W

Raroia E - Garumaoa

Anchor got up slightly after planned departure time, but it came up easily. The pearl floats make hoisting anchor by hand lighter. Then we started motoring to the other side of the atoll.

We needed to keep a extremely vigilant lookout, as the Raroia East anchorage has a lot of unused pearl farm ropes and floats partially submerged around it. On many occasions we needed to turn the engine on neutral and hope we glide over the ropes without getting tangled. In this kind of a place a full keel is a good keel form as the likelyhood of getting caught by the derelict ropes is smaller.

We anchored in close proximity to the pier, but the supply ship for this month already did its visit last week. We are going for dinner on land with one of the local families.

• Distance today: 7NM
• Lunch: wraps with hummus
• Engine hours: 1.9

Saturday, May 30, 2026 16°6'S 142°22'W

Raroia NE to Raroia E

The Raroia northeast anchorage was very comfortable, and the facilities of the “Twin Palms Yacht Club” fun. But we still wanted to explore the rest of the atoll.

And so in the morning we hoisted anchor and followed Plan B on a slaloming motoring course between the coral bommies.

Now we are anchored next to an abandoned pearl farm, and very near the spot where Kon-Tiki did their crash landing after the Pacific crossing in 1947.

• Distance today: 10.9NM
• Lunch: tofu curry
• Engine hours: 2.7

Wednesday, May 20, 2026 15°56'S 142°19'W

Raroia, 485NM S of Anaho

The sea state grew a bit more rumbunctious than before but Lille Ø made decent progress. In the morning we poled out the genoa and continued wing on wing untill our speed dropped a bit too much. If we could keep up 5kn, we still had a chance to make it through the pass with a favorable current. Or so we thought. Timing the entry to an atoll is not an exact sciense. There are no measurement devices around, nor pass schedules provided. The best tool available is Guestimator, and that gets it wrong on many occasions. The things to consider are: tide, wind, waves, amount of passes, pass widths, size of the atoll. All these components affect the in and outgoing current and when they occur.

Guestimator had the slack tide at 1pm. The boats going through reported 5 to 6 knots of current at that time, we came in at 14:30 when guestimator had given 2kn of incoming current, in reality we had 4kn against. Luckily this is a wide pass with buoys marking the best path through. After the pass we motored through the uncharted waters of the atoll and dropped our anchor into 4 meters of crystal clear water and floated the anchor with couple of floaties to keep it away from the choral bommies.

Raroia is gorgeus. Well spend here a while soaking up all the different shades of blue.

• Distance today: 108NM
• Lunch: bananas
• Engine hours: 5.5

Tuesday, May 19, 2026 14°26'S 142°10'W

Pacific Ocean, 377NM S of Anaho

The light and easy conditions continued as we sailed past the Isles of Disappointment, aptly named for their lack of anchorages.

As the atolls draw nearer, the boats that chose this weather window from the various Marqusan islands are starting to converge. At the time of writing we have three visible on AIS, one - Norwegian Alissa - which actually shows above the horizon.

• Distance today: 98NM
• Lunch: navy bean soup
• Engine hours: 0

Monday, May 18, 2026 12°53'S 141°42'W

Pacific Ocean, 279NM S of Anaho

After the night, it was time to hoist the main fully up. It has been a while since we have had the full main and genoa out. The conditions at sea are absolute bliss! The waves are small, the swell calm and the wind on the beam keeps the boat steady. We are edging closer to the calm patch but it should fill in over the night giving us nice steady conditions for the whole way.

• Distance today: 120NM
• Lunch: tofu curry
• Engine hours: 0

Sunday, May 17, 2026 11°4'S 140°55'W

Pacific Ocean, 159NM SSW of Anaho

As we got out of Nuku Hiva’s shadow, the wind filled in and we could start sailing on a brisk beam reach. Windvane was set, and since we’ve only had to roll the genoa out or in a bit to adjust to the wind speed.

The night was dark and without a moon. Milky Way stood visible above, and the Southern Cross and Orion guided our way.

After some light morning rain, the wind settled into a steady 13-15kn, allowing for fast and relatively easy progress aided by a favourable current. We hope not to sail too fast, as there is a calm to the south of us that should vanish around the time we get there.

• Distance today: 133NM
• Lunch: spaghetti aglio e olio
• Engine hours: 0

Saturday, May 16, 2026 8°56'S 140°17'W

Pacific Ocean, 26NM SW of Anaho

Exploring the islands of Marquesas has been fun. But it is time to go find something new, the atolls. We are heading to the next island group called Tuamotus. At noon we had the boat ready to go. Every nook and cranny full of vegetables and fruits bought from a local who sells the surplus of his garden to us cruisers.

After anchor was stowed away, we readied the staysail and hoisted the main. Seeing a squall behind the peninsula, we set 1st reef and motored until it passed. Then we enjoyed a fast downwind run on the north side of the island. Soon after gybing we found the wind shadow and turned the engine on again. At sundown we were greeted by a pod of dolphins and hope for the wind to find us soon.

• Distance today: 26.5NM
• Lunch: lentil sweet potato soup
• Engine hours: 2.3

Sunday, May 10, 2026 8°49'S 140°3'W

Taiohae - Anaho

The main bay of Nuku Hiva is convenient for logistics, but quite rolly. So having done our shopping, we decided to seek better anchorages and find Plan B again.

Getting past Cape Tikapo required some tacking. Big seas with light winds makes for slow and quite uncomfortable going, especially as we hadn’t packed the anchor away.

After passing the cape we could loosen the sheets, and things got more comfortable. We enjoyed a pomelo, and then soon gybed into the protected bay at Anaho. Books have it that this is the best anchorage in the Marquesas. So I think we’ll stay a while.

• Distance today: 26.2NM
• Lunch: cashew tomato pasta
• Engine hours: 1.4