Wednesday, November 20, 2024

Las Palmas, 83NM W of Gran Tarajal

The night fell under partially cloudy sky. Untill the moon rose, it was very dark. The wind was variable, like it couldn’t decide which direction or speed to take. We passed the traffic separation scheme without issues.

In the morning as we got closer to Las Palmas we kept rolling in the genoa and finally putting in a first reef to the main sail, partially because there was a thunder cloud near us, but also to slow us down not to arrive in the darkness.

The marina in Las Palmas is absolutely full with the ARC boats, and so the harbour anchorage has been extended a lot. Despite that, in the inner anchorage boats were packed like sardines. Quite dangerous, if there should be a gust. We elected for the more spacious but rolly outer anchorage.

Now it’s time to get some sleep, go check in at the marina office and visit the local chandlery. The wind direction is anything but optimal, but we are hiding behind a small wave break.

• Distance today: 55.5NM
• Total distance: 4399.9NM
• Engine hours: 1.1

Tuesday, November 19, 2024

Off Fuerteventura, 27NM SW of Gran Tarajal

The stop at Gran Tarajal ended up being a bit longer. At first there was no wind, then strong winds but from totally wrong direction. And then finally a nice forecast that allowed us to leave just before noon.

We left the marina wing on wing on a port tack. At some point the winds died a bit, and we had to point higher. But then at Punta del Morro Jable, winds picked up again and we could follow the coast west.

Just before lunch we were approached by a big pod of dolphins accompanied by a couple of really big pilot whales. They didn’t stay for long, but were clearly curious about us.

Sailing has been easy with almost flat seas and quite light winds, and so we’ve spent the day trying to recommission our watermaker. So far the results are not promising, but we keep trying various tricks.

Now we have the bow pointed towards Gran Canaria, as we head into night watches.

• Distance today: 27.5NM
• Total distance: 4344.4NM
• Lunch: spaghetti with avocado sauce
• Engine hours: 0.2

Tuesday, November 12, 2024

Corralejo - Gran Tarajal

The morning started with trying to find the harbour master for paying the two extra days we had spent trying to ship a DHL parcel out of Fuerteventura. Apparently the fact that the harbour in Corralejo has no street number was a hurdle too high for the service. Sigh.

After we had paid the extra days we were off. We hoisted the full sails just outside the wave break and were on our way! As soon as we were past the shallows, we turned into a comfortable wing on wing in the small residual swell.

Today we tried fishing again and caught our first tuna! It was made into a delicious lunch. I just love that our simplest fishing system, line and octopus lure with hooks works so well.

After lunch we got our sailing workout. The winds were variable, so we kept switching between full genoa and reefed genoa. And gybing. And motoring. And furling and unfurling. Until we started getting a bit of a time pressure to arrive before darkness. So we motored the last 4 miles and found a free spot in the harbour.

To our delight there was a Finnish boat in here already, so we spent a lovely evening on their boat talking about our adventures so far.

• Distance today: 40.1NM
• Total distance: 4316.9NM
• Lunch: fresh tuna with garlic soy sauce
• Engine hours: 1.5

Tuesday, November 5, 2024

Corralejo - Corralejo

Tropical storm Patty has sort of messed up the whole Atlantic weather system, and so on the “Island of Strong Winds” we’ve had a calm for a week.

Today finally the forecast had some hope, and so we took our friends sailing. In the morning the wind wasn’t quite strong enough for the swell, and so we motorsailed to Lanzarote. Anchor down, swim break, and a lunch.

Then in the afternoon the wind filled in, and we had quite the perfect sunny sail back to Fuerteventura. Main on the first reef and staysail.

In addition to a few turtles, we spotted the first flying fish of this trip.

• Distance today: 16.1NM
• Total distance: 4276.8NM
• Lunch: Couscous salad
• Engine hours: 2.2

Saturday, November 2, 2024

Playa Mujeres - Corralejo

The days in anchor proved to be a bit more stressful than anticipated. Our anchor trip buoy attracted multiples of rental motorboats trying to use it as a mooring ball. Two of them managed to tie themselves to our thin line and drag our anchor… After the second incident when we had to reposition the anchor, we decided to remove the marking buoy completely. Apparently the rental places tell the boats that there are free moorings in the anchorage, but they don’t tell the boats not to tie next to other vessels or how to make sure you are on an actual mooring and not on someone’s anchor marker…

Our friends from London had arrived to Fuerteventura, so we hoisted the anchor in the morning and enjoyed a lazy sailing day towards south. The multi-day calm had calmed the sea to a smooth state. Even the 3 to 5 kn wind was enough to push us along. Just like the lazy summer days in Havel, thought we had way less of traffic to pay attention to.

At the wave break we finally could hear the marina on channel 9 and were advised to go to the second pontoon. There is a lot of empty boxes here. This is a municipal dock, so no showers or toilets on land, but as soon as our registration for the app goes through, we have access to electricity and water.

• Distance today: 8.4NM
• Total distance: 4260.7NM
• Lunch: gazpacho
• Engine hours: 1

Tuesday, October 29, 2024

Arrecife - Playa Mujeres

A week went by quickly on Lanzarote, getting to know the volcanic landscape and hanging out with some fellow cruisers. But now forecast has a week of calm ahead, and so we thought it would be more fun to spend that in an anchorage.

With some careful boathook work, we were able to back the boat to the opposing box, and then motor out of the really narrow corner where the marina had placed us. We stopped by the fuel dock, as the last fill-up on Isle of Man has been a while ago. To our surprise, our (officially) 80l tank could fit 104l of diesel.

Then sails up and south, following the eastern coast of Lanzarote. Desert landscape, some resorts, and a few sailboats. The Spanish coastguard also gave us a short-distance drive-by.

We had to motor the last hour as the wind died, but now we’re tucked in the bay behind Cape Papagayo, in front of a series of scenic beaches. If weather is as forecasted, we’ll likely spend the next week here, hanging out and snorkeling.

• Distance today: 17.9NM
• Total distance: 4252.3NM
• Dinner: feta salad
• Engine hours: 1.9

Tuesday, October 22, 2024

Playa Francesa - Arrecife

After few days in anchor and ten after the latest grocery run, it was time to move. We motored against the wind and current between La Graciosa and Lanzarote and hoisted main and reefed genoa when we could turn to first a beam reach and later to wing on wing.

The large swell, small current and nice 15 to 20 kn of wind pushed us fast towards Arrecife. Marina Lanzarote doesn’t take any reservations during the high season (September to December). So when we were 1 mile out from the wave break, Bergie radioed in and we got our spot assigned. Arrecife harbour has a good map of the place allocation on their website, so we had the luxury of knowing which side to prepare and exactly where we were going. Something that is surprisingly rare.

Well stay here for a week at least and do some boat projects, sightseeing and hanging out with the Finnish friends we met in Viana do Castelo.

• Distance today: 27.1NM
• Total distance: 4234.4NM
• Lunch: lentil coconut curry
• Engine hours: 2.1

Thursday, October 17, 2024

Playa Francesa, 275NM SE of Quinta do Lorde

Right after dinner the wind picked up, and we could finally sail again. First on a tentative wing-on-wing, and soon we put in the first reef and moved the staysail to the same side.

What followed was a fun fast 24h of sailing on a beam reach. Wind vane steered, and despite the large waves hitting us on the beam, the boat moved like on rails.

The cloudy night didn’t give many stargazing opportunities. But the full moon gave everything this quite surreal look, like the boat and the sea had stage lighting. Realisation hits: at 29°N we’re now closer to the Equator than to Shetlands.

Land was sighted in the beginning of the first afternoon watch. The first islands of the Canaries rose from the horizon. We reached La Graciosa in the evening, and dropped anchor to a bay between it and Lanzarote just as the sun set.

Now time for that well-deserved anleger. Kippis, Martina!

• Distance today: 136NM
• Total distance: 4207.3NM
• Engine hours: 0.4

Wednesday, October 16, 2024

Atlantic Ocean, 139NM SE of Quinta do Lorde

In the evening sky we could enjoy the comet making its pass. The moon was up, so the darkness didn’t set in properly, what a joyous feeling.

As the night drew on, the wind dwindled down to 4 knots. That was the moment to switch from sail power to engine. Weather forecast from Tuesday morning had us sailing the whole way. We got new weather on Wednesday morning and there was an update.

No wind till Wednesday evening, what a bummer. Now we are still motoring and hoping that the wind will pick up soon so we can yet again glide into the night in silence.

• Distance today: 98NM
• Total distance: 4071.3NM
• Lunch: mushroom and tomato börek
• Engine hours: 12.1

Tuesday, October 15, 2024

Atlantic Ocean, 41NM SE of Quinta do Lorde

Much of the last week was spent sheltering from the tails of old hurricane remnants that were making their march east towards Biscay or Portugal. The nice Madeira season was clearly coming to a close.

And so, in the morning we prepared the boat for offshore, turned it around with ropes on the pier, and then left the marina.

In the wind acceleration zone behind the island of Madeira the conditions were quite blustery, gusting up to 30kt. So we first hoisted the staysail and a double-reefed main. Then we’ve been progressively increasing sail, as the winds have been getting lighter.

• Distance today: 41NM
• Total distance: 3973.3NM
• Lunch: feta salad
• Engine hours: 0.8