Friday, December 20, 2024

Atlantic Ocean, 151NM SW of Las Palmas

After a bit of sailing we again found the calm in the southwest corner of Gran Canaria. We motored through that, and were then able to start sailing properly. Soon we could switch to windvane steering, and gybe to the port tack that we’ll likely keep all the way to Cape Verde.

Night watches were quite uneventful with some shooting stars. The first full day at sea dawned with mostly clear skies. Wind direction has stayed constant, with speed fluctuating between 15kt and 30kt. The first reef and staysail seems a good combination for this range, and aided by current we’ve been making good progress.

Our fishing efforts suffered a slight setback, however. First catch of the day was a plastic bag that we’ll dispose properly. Then half hour later some bigger fish bit the line clean off, taking our lures with it.

As we approach the original route line, we now prepared the whisker pole for going wing-on-wing.

• Distance today: 120.4NM
• Lunch: spaghetti with avocado sauce
• Engine hours: 2.5

Thursday, December 19, 2024

Atlantic Ocean, 31.1NM W of Las Palmas

Finally we had the parcel from Germany and a suitable weather window for leaving! Next time we need something delivered to Canaries, its faster, cheaper and more reliable to go and get it your self and bring it as checked in luggage. Live and learn.

In the morning we ran through our checklists and prepared the boat. Our boat neighbour was kind enough to offer his help so we gave him one of our bow lines to keep us from crashing into the pier while we waited for the slime line to sink before we engaged the transmission. Nothings spoils a day like a line fouled in the propeller. But we had none of that and reversed out of our slip like pros. Just outside of the wave break we were greeted by the waves coming all the way from the coast of Africa, we motored through and hoisted the sails outside the commercial harbours entrance as you are not allowed to sail inside the harbour. The old style wave break created a messy sea state as it was bouncing back the waves. As soon as we were past it, we could more enjoy the fact that we were on our way once again!

As we were rounding our turn towards south, we also found the windstill at the lee of the island, we motored a bit until we were also protected from the waves and proceeded to bob with only the mainsail up in the gentle swell waiting for the wind to fill itself back up from the north.

As I’m writing this we are pointing south again with a bit of a breeze to be able to call this sailing. Ahead of us some 850NM and the sea.

• Distance today: 31.1NM
• Lunch: pea soup
• Engine hours: 2.5

Thursday, November 21, 2024

Las Palmas - Las Palmas

We checked in yesterday at the marina office and paid the anchoring fee. They asked if we’d also want to be added to the waiting list for a berth. Seeing the huge number of boats waiting outside, the chances felt slim, but we said yes anyway. After all, we are a small boat.

On the same trip, I did the first reconnaissance to the big number of chandleries. Seems like we will be able to check a few items off our project list while here!

The temporary anchorage we were in was quite poorly protected, and the passing ferries caused quite big waves. Rolly and somewhat uncomfortable.

Today it was planned to be Suski’s day out in the town. Since the anchorage is somewhat precarious, we wanted to have somebody on anchor watch and ready to react as needed.

Suski set Isosaari up for sailing, and headed out towards the marina. As soon as she was past our small wavebreak, a gust came and the dinghy broached and capsized. She was able to right it quickly, but bailing while drifting in big waves turned out to be tricky. Luckily some local 2.4mR boats were out, and their trainer came to assist. Soon Suski was towed back home, the dinghy dried, and all things from her day pack laid out to dry in the cabin.

She decided to use the day for carpentry instead of a land adventure, and so soon we’ll have a slight extension to the v-berth. I went on land instead, rowing just to stay on the safe side.

A chance encounter with the harbour master made a berth materialise. After a round of chandlery purchases (including new big dry bags for dinghy use!), we hoisted anchor and motored into the marina. Nice place, they even have a “Follow Me” dinghy to point you to your spot!

• Distance today: 0.7NM
• Total distance: 4400.6NM
• Dinner: burgers and beer
• Engine hours: 0.5

Wednesday, November 20, 2024

Las Palmas, 83NM W of Gran Tarajal

The night fell under partially cloudy sky. Untill the moon rose, it was very dark. The wind was variable, like it couldn’t decide which direction or speed to take. We passed the traffic separation scheme without issues.

In the morning as we got closer to Las Palmas we kept rolling in the genoa and finally putting in a first reef to the main sail, partially because there was a thunder cloud near us, but also to slow us down not to arrive in the darkness.

The marina in Las Palmas is absolutely full with the ARC boats, and so the harbour anchorage has been extended a lot. Despite that, in the inner anchorage boats were packed like sardines. Quite dangerous, if there should be a gust. We elected for the more spacious but rolly outer anchorage.

Now it’s time to get some sleep, go check in at the marina office and visit the local chandlery. The wind direction is anything but optimal, but we are hiding behind a small wave break.

• Distance today: 55.5NM
• Total distance: 4399.9NM
• Engine hours: 1.1

Tuesday, November 19, 2024

Off Fuerteventura, 27NM SW of Gran Tarajal

The stop at Gran Tarajal ended up being a bit longer. At first there was no wind, then strong winds but from totally wrong direction. And then finally a nice forecast that allowed us to leave just before noon.

We left the marina wing on wing on a port tack. At some point the winds died a bit, and we had to point higher. But then at Punta del Morro Jable, winds picked up again and we could follow the coast west.

Just before lunch we were approached by a big pod of dolphins accompanied by a couple of really big pilot whales. They didn’t stay for long, but were clearly curious about us.

Sailing has been easy with almost flat seas and quite light winds, and so we’ve spent the day trying to recommission our watermaker. So far the results are not promising, but we keep trying various tricks.

Now we have the bow pointed towards Gran Canaria, as we head into night watches.

• Distance today: 27.5NM
• Total distance: 4344.4NM
• Lunch: spaghetti with avocado sauce
• Engine hours: 0.2

Tuesday, November 12, 2024

Corralejo - Gran Tarajal

The morning started with trying to find the harbour master for paying the two extra days we had spent trying to ship a DHL parcel out of Fuerteventura. Apparently the fact that the harbour in Corralejo has no street number was a hurdle too high for the service. Sigh.

After we had paid the extra days we were off. We hoisted the full sails just outside the wave break and were on our way! As soon as we were past the shallows, we turned into a comfortable wing on wing in the small residual swell.

Today we tried fishing again and caught our first tuna! It was made into a delicious lunch. I just love that our simplest fishing system, line and octopus lure with hooks works so well.

After lunch we got our sailing workout. The winds were variable, so we kept switching between full genoa and reefed genoa. And gybing. And motoring. And furling and unfurling. Until we started getting a bit of a time pressure to arrive before darkness. So we motored the last 4 miles and found a free spot in the harbour.

To our delight there was a Finnish boat in here already, so we spent a lovely evening on their boat talking about our adventures so far.

• Distance today: 40.1NM
• Total distance: 4316.9NM
• Lunch: fresh tuna with garlic soy sauce
• Engine hours: 1.5

Tuesday, November 5, 2024

Corralejo - Corralejo

Tropical storm Patty has sort of messed up the whole Atlantic weather system, and so on the “Island of Strong Winds” we’ve had a calm for a week.

Today finally the forecast had some hope, and so we took our friends sailing. In the morning the wind wasn’t quite strong enough for the swell, and so we motorsailed to Lanzarote. Anchor down, swim break, and a lunch.

Then in the afternoon the wind filled in, and we had quite the perfect sunny sail back to Fuerteventura. Main on the first reef and staysail.

In addition to a few turtles, we spotted the first flying fish of this trip.

• Distance today: 16.1NM
• Total distance: 4276.8NM
• Lunch: Couscous salad
• Engine hours: 2.2

Saturday, November 2, 2024

Playa Mujeres - Corralejo

The days in anchor proved to be a bit more stressful than anticipated. Our anchor trip buoy attracted multiples of rental motorboats trying to use it as a mooring ball. Two of them managed to tie themselves to our thin line and drag our anchor… After the second incident when we had to reposition the anchor, we decided to remove the marking buoy completely. Apparently the rental places tell the boats that there are free moorings in the anchorage, but they don’t tell the boats not to tie next to other vessels or how to make sure you are on an actual mooring and not on someone’s anchor marker…

Our friends from London had arrived to Fuerteventura, so we hoisted the anchor in the morning and enjoyed a lazy sailing day towards south. The multi-day calm had calmed the sea to a smooth state. Even the 3 to 5 kn wind was enough to push us along. Just like the lazy summer days in Havel, thought we had way less of traffic to pay attention to.

At the wave break we finally could hear the marina on channel 9 and were advised to go to the second pontoon. There is a lot of empty boxes here. This is a municipal dock, so no showers or toilets on land, but as soon as our registration for the app goes through, we have access to electricity and water.

• Distance today: 8.4NM
• Total distance: 4260.7NM
• Lunch: gazpacho
• Engine hours: 1

Tuesday, October 29, 2024

Arrecife - Playa Mujeres

A week went by quickly on Lanzarote, getting to know the volcanic landscape and hanging out with some fellow cruisers. But now forecast has a week of calm ahead, and so we thought it would be more fun to spend that in an anchorage.

With some careful boathook work, we were able to back the boat to the opposing box, and then motor out of the really narrow corner where the marina had placed us. We stopped by the fuel dock, as the last fill-up on Isle of Man has been a while ago. To our surprise, our (officially) 80l tank could fit 104l of diesel.

Then sails up and south, following the eastern coast of Lanzarote. Desert landscape, some resorts, and a few sailboats. The Spanish coastguard also gave us a short-distance drive-by.

We had to motor the last hour as the wind died, but now we’re tucked in the bay behind Cape Papagayo, in front of a series of scenic beaches. If weather is as forecasted, we’ll likely spend the next week here, hanging out and snorkeling.

• Distance today: 17.9NM
• Total distance: 4252.3NM
• Dinner: feta salad
• Engine hours: 1.9

Tuesday, October 22, 2024

Playa Francesa - Arrecife

After few days in anchor and ten after the latest grocery run, it was time to move. We motored against the wind and current between La Graciosa and Lanzarote and hoisted main and reefed genoa when we could turn to first a beam reach and later to wing on wing.

The large swell, small current and nice 15 to 20 kn of wind pushed us fast towards Arrecife. Marina Lanzarote doesn’t take any reservations during the high season (September to December). So when we were 1 mile out from the wave break, Bergie radioed in and we got our spot assigned. Arrecife harbour has a good map of the place allocation on their website, so we had the luxury of knowing which side to prepare and exactly where we were going. Something that is surprisingly rare.

Well stay here for a week at least and do some boat projects, sightseeing and hanging out with the Finnish friends we met in Viana do Castelo.

• Distance today: 27.1NM
• Total distance: 4234.4NM
• Lunch: lentil coconut curry
• Engine hours: 2.1